I have been asked many times about the cars I use when I play Fear of the Dark or Frontline Heroes (ww2 or modern). The brands of the cars, scales and so on, so I have decided to make a post to answer a few questions.
This post was initially in the Fear of the Dark blog, but now I´m putting together everything in a single blog.
I´ll start saying that I use 1/43 diecast models, although sometimes they are labeled 1/64 or 1/50, I´ll explain the differences later in this same post.
Diecast cars are cheap, a huge range of models is available, they are tough and don´t break easily and they are already painted... what else?
But let me explain why I use diecast models instead of the usual models available from different wargaming companies.
Without any kind of doubt, vehicles used as scenery make an amazing game table in WWII, pulp, modern, zombies... A table with a modern or 1920s setting should have a minimal selection of different vehicles to decorate. If you go for a walk what you will see in every street is a lot of cars, no matter the city in the world you are.
Now let´s face the main problems that we as wargamers usually have when dealing with vehicles in our games.
The companies that make miniatures usually use the 1/56 scale for vehicles, although they are obviously small next to the miniatures of standing people.
Why is this scale used then? It is merely for possibilities of use on a game table, if we use a tank in the appropriate scale it would have a considerable size, and we could hardly use more vehicles (armored or not), but think about it... a tank is f*****g huge in real life.
Let's see an example with some 1/56 scale vehicles, an allied jeep and a German kubelwagen from the Second World War from Warlord for the Bolt Action game together with miniatures of soldiers from the same brand.
In fact, there are manufacturers that directly set the scale as "fit in the box", which is basically that those models are sold in a cardboard box and the vehicles (regardless of the model) are sized to fit in the box ( it does not matter if it is a hummer or a mini ... The box is the same and the vehicles MUST be the size of the box).
Therefore, I personally advise buying diecast vehicles online as long as we can have the measurements and check their size. If we do not have the measurements, never trust if it is stated to be "1/50 scale" since what that manufacturer understands by 1/50 can be anything.
These ones below are from the British brand Corgi. The scale is usually quite inconsistent, so it is better to know their size in centimeters.
These are from Matchbox, in its "models of yesteryear" range, and they fit the 28mm miniatures range.
These are from the Spanish brand Guisval on a 1/64 scale, although they are a bit small, they look quite good for the quality and degree of detail.
These ones below are 1/43 scale vehicles from a collection of WWII military vehicles from the Atlas company published in France and a collection published in Spain, being heavy vehicles, although they are a bit large, it goes unnoticed too much once on the game table. They are easily found on eBay and similar applications.
For more pics of ww2 vehicles check the too much terrain blog, you'll find It really interesting and with a huge collection of pictures.
MODERN VEHICLES
Here we have the same problem as with the previous ones, only that of modern vehicles we have an impressive variety of makes, models... and scales...
I would recommend that you go directly to the 1/43 scale, of which there is a real immensity of possibilities (and cheaper than any option), and as there is also variation in size within that scale, I would look for vehicles that were smaller than 1/43 even if they were marked as that scale.
MODIFYNG AND WEATHERING VEHICLES
Most diecast models look brand new, and when used for wargaming, they look TOO new, that,s why we weather them, to give them the look of real cars.
It must be said that vehicles are a perfect base to test painting and weathering techniques, since if we screw it up, the loss wont be regreted given the price of these cars.
Here are some of the weatherings I made to the cars, and I have to admit that they look top on the gaming table. Left is the original car without any weathering and right is after they have been weathered.
And the same happens with modern cars, that need a weathering to have a "real" look:
Diecast cars are cheap, so don´t be afraid of practicing any weathering technique you see, and don´t worry aboiut weathering too much or spoiling a car. We learn through practise...
With the last one I wanted to try a technique to make gun shots in the windscreen, and I have to say that they look quite good.
Sometimes, in the lots of vehicles that we find, some vehicles sre directly discarded, either because of the conditions they are, the model itself, the color...
In fact, when I buy second-hand cars, I usually ask the seller if he has damaged, worn out or vehicles in bad conditions, which he usually would not sell. Since we can use them as scenery, and in many cases they even include them in the lot for free.
Now I will show you how I solved some vehicles that for obvious reasons did not adapt to the game table.
The first was this mini Cooper that did not fit me on a table in a town in the Middle East, so I decided to turn it into a wrecked vehicle that would be perfect as a scenery and as a cover in case of combat.
I removed the wheels and the front glass. I mounted it on four pieces of foam cardboard simulating cement or brick blocks and painted it to make it look like it had suffered a fire ...
And this is the result, which hits the tables in the Middle East (and in Western settings as well), giving the table more detail.
The second example is this Mercedes... The model of the vehicle suited my purposes very well, but it needs a good painting to remove that horrendous orange colour and to be able to use that vehicle on the game table.
Another case was this Shelby Gt500, the problem was that it was from a promotion that was worth 2 euros, so I bought two of them, and of course, two cars like this the same did not fit my requirements.
So I decided to give one of them a radical change and turn it into a post apocalyptic vehicle to the purest essence of Mad Max. Matte black, some remnants of other cars and spare parts, mud and shots on the glass... and this was the result:
Well, this is it, we are done with this topic, and as a summary, I´ll say the the rule would be tha 28mm fit 1:48 scale, and 32mm fit 1:43 scale... But (there is always a but) the right scale is what looks good besides your miniatures. Your game, your rules.
I hope this post helps you and clarifies any doubts when selecting vehicles for your games.
Anyway, below you have the comments section in case you have any questions, any correction or whatever you want.
Spot on, I use 1/43 and 1/50 for 28mm gaming, I have a bunch of Diecast Lledo for pulp gaming and quite a few other bits and pieces for modern gaming.
ResponderEliminarI predominantly play ww2 and modern in 20mm so for civilian cars I use a lot of hot wheels and Jonny lightening and the odd matchbox. I normally repaint the, though.
Great blog, you have a new follower
Cheers
Matt
French Wargame Holidays
Great choice!
EliminarFor 1/72 (20mm) hot wheels are the way to go. They fit perfect that scale. For 20mm modern scenarios you.may get a lot of hit wheels Cars to fill a city.
Yes hotwheels are the predominant vehicles in my collection, I am always looking at second hand shops for them, but sometimes they release great box collections. I have around sixty different vehicles.
EliminarCheers
Matt
Thanks for compilation!
ResponderEliminarThanks a lot!
EliminarI Hope It is useful!